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Ultra-Processed People

13 min

The Science Behind Food That Isn’t Food

Introduction

Narrator: Imagine a warm autumn day in a London park. A father buys his three-year-old daughter, Lyra, a scoop of pistachio ice cream. She takes a few licks before running off to play, leaving the cone on a bench in the sun. An hour later, the father returns to find something strange. The ice cream hasn't melted. It’s not a puddle; it’s a warm, gelatinous foam. When he checks the ingredients online, he finds a list of substances he doesn’t recognize from a home kitchen: stabilizers, emulsifiers, gums, and various oils. This single, unsettling observation sparked a journey into the heart of our modern food system. In his book, Ultra-Processed People, Dr. Chris van Tulleken unravels the science behind these food-like substances, revealing how they have come to dominate our diets and what they are doing to our bodies, our minds, and our planet.

Ultra-Processed Food Isn't Just Junk Food; It's a New Category of Substance

Key Insight 1

Narrator: The first step in understanding the modern diet is to recognize that not all processed food is the same. The book introduces the NOVA classification system, developed by Brazilian scientist Carlos Monteiro, which divides food into four groups based on its level of processing. Group 1 is unprocessed or minimally processed foods, like fruits, vegetables, and meat. Group 2 is processed culinary ingredients, like oil and sugar. Group 3 is processed foods, like canned fish or simple bread.

But it’s Group 4, Ultra-Processed Food or UPF, that is the focus of the book. A simple rule of thumb is offered: if it's wrapped in plastic and contains at least one ingredient you wouldn't find in a standard home kitchen, it’s likely UPF. These are not real foods that have been modified, but industrial formulations of ingredients extracted from food, such as fats, starches, and sugars, and synthesized in labs. They are designed for one primary purpose: immense profitability. This is made clear through the story of the author’s daughter, Lyra, and her obsession with Coco Pops. Despite never having had them before, she became fixated, consuming bowl after bowl in a trance-like state. The cereal, a classic UPF, is engineered for hyper-palatability, designed to be irresistible and to displace whole, nutritious foods.

The Driving Force Behind UPF Is Profit, Not Nutrition

Key Insight 2

Narrator: To understand why UPF exists, one must look at the economics. The book details a meeting between the author and Paul Hart, a food-industry insider. Hart explains that the core driver for using industrial additives is cost reduction. He uses ice cream as the perfect example. Traditional ice cream is expensive, requiring cream, milk, and eggs. UPF ice cream, however, uses a process of "molecular replacement." Expensive ingredients are substituted with cheap, industrially modified alternatives, often derived from subsidized crops like corn and soy.

Emulsifiers and gums are added to mimic the texture of fat and to make the product "tolerant of warmth," meaning it can survive long supply chains without melting, just like Lyra’s ice cream in the park. These ingredients allow for centralized, large-scale manufacturing, which dramatically lowers costs. As Hart puts it, the one thing the accountants can constantly manipulate to increase profit margins is the ingredients. This economic logic explains why UPF is so prevalent, especially in countries where food is cheap.

UPF Is 'Pre-Chewed,' Leading to Overconsumption

Key Insight 3

Narrator: One of the most significant findings presented in the book is that the physical structure of food, its "matrix," is critically important for health. A study on apples demonstrated this perfectly: participants who ate whole apples felt full for hours, while those who consumed the same number of calories as apple juice or puree were hungry again shortly after. The fiber matrix of the whole apple slowed down digestion and the release of sugar.

UPF destroys this natural matrix. It is engineered to be soft and easy to eat, effectively being "pre-chewed." This softness, combined with its high calorie density, leads to a much faster rate of consumption. This was proven in a landmark experiment by researcher Kevin Hall. He confined volunteers to a lab and fed them either an unprocessed diet or a UPF diet for two weeks, with both diets matched for sugar, fat, salt, and fiber. The results were stunning: on the UPF diet, people automatically ate 500 more calories per day and gained weight. They weren't trying to overeat; the food itself, by its very nature, drove them to do so.

UPF Hacks the Brain's Reward System, Driving Addiction

Key Insight 4

Narrator: The book argues that UPF is not just food; it is an "industrially produced edible substance" that can be addictive. During his own month-long experiment of eating an 80% UPF diet, the author experienced this firsthand. He gained a significant amount of weight, developed anxiety and poor sleep, and felt constantly hungry.

More alarmingly, MRI scans of his brain taken before and after the diet showed significant changes. New connections had formed between the reward centers of his brain and the areas that drive automatic, repetitive behavior. These are the same kinds of changes seen in the brains of people with addictions to substances like tobacco or alcohol. The combination of refined carbs, fats, flavorings, and soft textures in UPF creates a product that can hijack the brain’s reward system, creating a cycle of craving and consumption that is incredibly difficult to break.

Blaming Willpower Ignores the Collision of Genetics and a Toxic Food Environment

Key Insight 5

Narrator: The book powerfully refutes the idea that obesity is a simple failure of willpower. It uses the story of the author and his identical twin brother, Xand, to illustrate this. They share the same genes, but for a decade, Xand was significantly heavier. The difference wasn't willpower; it was the environment. When Xand moved to the United States for his master's degree, he was immersed in a "food swamp"—an environment saturated with cheap, heavily marketed UPF.

This story demonstrates that while genetics can create a predisposition to weight gain, it is the food environment that pulls the trigger. In communities with high levels of poverty and stress, which are often food swamps, the heritability of obesity is much higher. People are not making free choices; they are responding to an environment engineered to promote the consumption of UPF. Blaming individuals is not only cruel but also misses the root of the problem.

The True Cost of UPF Extends to Environmental Destruction and Plastic Pollution

Key Insight 6

Narrator: The impact of UPF goes far beyond individual health. The book details the immense "externalized costs" of this food system. The production of commodity crops like soy and palm oil, key ingredients in most UPF, is a primary driver of deforestation, particularly in places like Brazil and Indonesia. This destruction of rainforests and peatlands releases massive amounts of carbon into the atmosphere.

Furthermore, the industrial farming required to produce cheap meat for UPF relies on the routine use of antibiotics, which contributes to the growing crisis of antibiotic resistance. Finally, UPF is almost universally packaged in single-use plastic. Companies like Coca-Cola, PepsiCo, and Nestlé are consistently ranked as the world's top plastic polluters, creating billions of bottles and packets that end up in oceans and landfills. The true cost of a tube of Pringles, therefore, includes not just its price but also deforestation, climate change, and plastic waste.

Meaningful Change Requires Government Regulation, Not Just Individual Choice

Key Insight 7

Narrator: Given the systemic nature of the problem, the book concludes that individual action, while important, is not enough. The food industry is driven by a legal and financial obligation to maximize profit for shareholders, a goal that is fundamentally at odds with public health. The story of Emmanuel Faber, the CEO of Danone who was fired after trying to prioritize social and environmental goals over profit, shows that companies cannot regulate themselves.

Instead, the solution must come from government intervention. The book points to Chile as a model. In 2016, Chile implemented a set of bold policies, including clear, black-box warning labels on unhealthy foods, restrictions on marketing to children, and a ban on selling these products in schools. The results have been dramatic, with a significant drop in the purchase of sugary drinks and other UPF. This approach, which removes industry influence and provides consumers with clear information, offers a template for how governments can create a food environment where the healthy choice is the easy choice.

Conclusion

Narrator: The single most important takeaway from Ultra-Processed People is that the global obesity and diet-related disease crisis is not a crisis of personal willpower. It is the result of a fundamental change in our food environment, driven by a system that profits from selling us addictive, unhealthy, and environmentally destructive substances masquerading as food. The book challenges us to shift the blame from the individual to the industry. It asks us to stop questioning what is wrong with us, and start asking what is wrong with our food. The ultimate challenge it leaves us with is not just to change our own diets, but to demand a world where everyone has the freedom to make a genuinely healthy choice.

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