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The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book

11 min

Introduction

Narrator: Imagine being asked to write the story of your life, a life spent in the shadow of a literary giant, at the very center of the 20th century's art world. When a publisher approached Alice B. Toklas with this very proposition, her reply was swift and final. "Gertrude did my autobiography and it’s done," she said, referring to Gertrude Stein’s famous work, The Autobiography of Alice B. Toklas, which was, of course, written by Stein herself. But then, Toklas offered an alternative, a creative sidestep that would become her definitive statement: "What I could do is a cook book. It would, of course, be full of memories." That book, The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book, is far more than a collection of recipes. It is a masterclass in how a life can be told not just through events, but through flavors, aromas, and the intimate rituals of the kitchen. It is a memoir in disguise, a window into a lost world of art, war, and culinary adventure.

A Memoir Born from a Refusal

Key Insight 1

Narrator: The origin of The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book is a story of creative defiance. After Gertrude Stein’s death, publishers saw an opportunity for Toklas to tell her own story. But Alice felt that Stein’s version of her life was definitive. To write another would be to compete with the woman she had dedicated her life to. Her proposal to write a cookbook instead was a stroke of genius. It allowed her to reclaim her own narrative voice, not through the grand pronouncements of a memoirist, but through the practical, sensory world she had always commanded: the kitchen.

This was not just a collection of recipes; it was a promise of memories. The book’s unique power comes from this fusion. A recipe for Bass for Picasso is not just about fish; it’s about art, friendship, and gentle rivalry. A chapter on wartime food is not just about rationing; it’s about survival, fear, and resilience. Toklas’s personality—direct, witty, and unpretentious—shines through in every anecdote. This is perfectly captured in a story shared by her publisher, Simon Michael Bessie. During the book's creation, Toklas hosted a lunch to test recipes for Bessie and the famed writer Thornton Wilder. Short on money, Toklas cooked and served the meal herself. Each time she entered the dining room from the kitchen, the ever-polite Wilder would stand up. As she served a large platter of fried chicken, her patience wore thin. "Which do you prefer, light or dark meat?" she asked. When the indecisive Wilder turned to his sister for help, an exasperated Toklas simply told him to help himself and returned to the kitchen. This moment reveals the woman behind the book: pragmatic, sharp, and more interested in the substance of the meal than the ceremony surrounding it. The cookbook became her perfect vehicle, a way to tell her life story on her own terms.

A Voice Forged in Necessity and Poetry

Key Insight 2

Narrator: While the book is a work of art, its conception was rooted in stark necessity. As writer Ruth Reichl explains in the introduction, Toklas was in a desperate situation in post-war Paris. Six years after Stein’s death, the 75-year-old Toklas was broke, living in a single, sparsely heated room, surrounded by priceless art she was forbidden to sell. Food was rationed and black-market prices were exorbitant. Her brilliant plan was to write a cookbook not just for posterity, but to gain access to the American embassy commissary, where food was sold at a fraction of the price. It was a pragmatic solution to a life-or-death problem.

Yet, what emerged from this practical need was anything but a simple recipe collection. Toklas’s voice is poetic, surprising, and utterly unique. She doesn’t just give instructions; she sets scenes. A search for a gazpacho recipe in Seville becomes a miniature detective story where she notes, with playful precision, that "Cook-books without number, exactly eleven, were offered." This literary flair transforms the book from a culinary guide into a work of literature. Reichl recounts how discovering the book as a teenager was a revelation. It wasn't just about cooking; it was about a way of life—about exploring markets, planting a garden, and understanding that food was a language of its own. The book inspired a new generation of food writers to see that a recipe could be a story and a cookbook could be a memoir.

The Kitchen as an Artist's Studio

Key Insight 3

Narrator: Living at the heart of the Parisian avant-garde, Toklas treated her kitchen as an extension of the salon. Food was not just sustenance; it was another medium for expression, a way to amuse, honor, and connect with the brilliant minds who frequented their home at 27 rue de Fleurus. The chapter "Dishes for Artists" is a testament to this, filled with culinary creations named for their famous friends.

One of the most telling anecdotes is the story of "Bass for Picasso." Knowing Picasso was coming for lunch, Toklas decided to create a dish that would be a visual masterpiece. She poached a large striped bass and, once it cooled, decorated it as if it were a canvas. She used plain mayonnaise for the body, red mayonnaise colored with tomato paste for the fins and tail, and created a vibrant pattern with sieved hard-boiled eggs, black truffles, and finely chopped herbs. When the dish was presented, Picasso was delighted, exclaiming at its beauty. But with a characteristic flash of wit, he joked that such a colorful, cubist-looking creation should have been made in honor of his rival, Henri Matisse. This story perfectly illustrates how Toklas used food as a form of creative dialogue, turning a simple lunch into a memorable piece of performance art.

Murder, Morality, and Wartime Survival

Key Insight 4

Narrator: Toklas does not shy away from the less romantic aspects of cooking. The chapter titled "Murder in the Kitchen" opens with the stark reality that before one can cook, one must often kill. She recounts with grim humor her first attempt at dispatching a live carp, a task the fishmonger refused to do. Unsure how to proceed, she recalls fishermen killing salmon by striking them against a dock. Lacking a dock, she settled on a knife, plunging it into the fish with a sense of horror. This confrontation with the "unacceptable facts" of food preparation grounds the book in a raw honesty, stripping away any pretense of sanitized domesticity.

This unflinching perspective extends to the more complex moral questions of her life with Stein. Their survival during World War II is a complicated story. As two Jewish American women, they chose to remain in France during the Nazi occupation. They lived in relative comfort, protected by high-ranking Vichy officials, and Stein even translated speeches for Marshal Pétain, the head of the collaborationist regime. Reichl’s introduction forces the reader to confront this difficult history, including Stein’s shocking 1934 suggestion that Hitler deserved a Nobel Peace Prize for "removing all the elements of contest and struggle from Germany." Toklas herself later reflected on the war years with a chilling statement: "Though Hitler and the presence of the Occupants was a menacing nightmare, I was happier then than today." The cookbook, therefore, exists in a complex moral landscape, a testament not only to culinary creativity but also to the ambiguous choices made in the name of survival.

A Culinary Map of a Life

Key Insight 5

Narrator: The book is a journey through the places that shaped Toklas's palate. Her deep understanding of French culinary traditions is central, as she contrasts the French reverence for food as an art form with what she saw as American expediency. She notes that in France, even working men would passionately debate the proper way to prepare a beef stew, a level of engagement unheard of in America. She respected the French adherence to tradition, where a potato salad must be served with chicory, but also saw its limitations.

However, her perspective was forever changed by her 1934 tour of the United States with Stein. Initially skeptical of American food, Toklas was gradually won over by the country's vast and surprising culinary landscape. She discovered the delights of Oysters Rockefeller in New Orleans, a dish she believed promoted "goodwill towards the United States," and indulged in "gastronomic orgies" of crabs and avocados in California, which she called "God's own country." This journey revealed a hidden America, one of rich regional fare that challenged her European sensibilities. The recipes and memories from this trip, alongside those from her decades in France, make the cookbook a true culinary map of her life, charting a course from the markets of Paris to the shores of California and back again.

Conclusion

Narrator: Ultimately, The Alice B. Toklas Cook Book teaches us that a life story is not just a sequence of events, but a tapestry of sensory experiences. It proves that the most profound memories are often tied to the simplest things: the taste of a wild strawberry, the aroma of a roasting chicken, the texture of a perfect pastry. Alice B. Toklas, the woman who refused to write a traditional memoir, ended up creating one of the most intimate and enduring life stories ever written, using recipes as her ink and the kitchen as her page.

The book's legacy is its radical expansion of what a cookbook could be. It challenged the idea that food writing should be confined to sterile instructions, paving the way for the narrative-driven, personal culinary writing we cherish today. It asks us to consider our own lives: if you were to tell your story through food, what recipes would you choose, and what memories would they hold?

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