
The Rome Plague Diaries
9 minLockdown Life in the Eternal City
Introduction
Narrator: Imagine the eternal city of Rome, a place synonymous with the ceaseless thrum of life, suddenly falling silent. The roar of traffic, the chatter of tourists, the clatter of café life—all gone. In their place, an eerie quiet hangs over empty piazzas and shuttered shops. It is in this surreal landscape that a writer, armed with a self-declaration form and a copy of his own book as justification for his journey, ventures across the Ponte Sisto bridge. He is not a tourist, but a resident, witnessing his home transformed into a ghost town by an invisible enemy. This is the world captured in Matthew Kneale’s The Rome Plague Diaries: Lockdown Life in the Eternal City, a profound and personal account that uses the crucible of the COVID-19 pandemic to explore the deep, complex, and resilient character of Rome and its people.
A New and Smaller World: The Shock of Confinement
Key Insight 1
Narrator: The book opens with the sudden imposition of lockdown, a moment that shrinks the world overnight. For Kneale and his family, life is abruptly confined to their postal district, 00153 Roma. The initial days are a whirlwind of adjustment and anxiety. This is powerfully illustrated by the story of Kneale’s wife, Shannon, who was in Canada when the crisis escalated. Her return flight was cancelled, forcing a frantic scramble to book a new one. Her arrival home was not one of joyful reunion, but of carefully orchestrated social distancing. There were no hugs or kisses; instead, the family began a new, strange life of separation within their own apartment to protect against potential infection from her journey. This personal story encapsulates the broader experience of the lockdown: the disruption of personal plans, the heightened fear of transmission, and the awkward new social etiquette Kneale terms the "virus dance." Daily routines like grocery shopping become expeditions fraught with tension, as people learn to navigate crowded aisles and maintain distance, a practice for which, as Kneale notes, modern capitalism is not well designed.
The Unchanging Roman Character: Eccentricity and Community in Crisis
Key Insight 2
Narrator: While the lockdown silenced the city, it could not erase the fundamental character of its people. In fact, the quiet streets seemed to make Rome’s unique spirit more visible. The book documents how, amidst the fear, a powerful sense of community and solidarity emerged. The most vivid example is the "balcony serenade," a social media campaign that encouraged Italians to sing from their windows. One evening, Kneale and his family step onto their balcony to participate. Soon, neighbors appear at their own windows, and the sound of the Italian national anthem fills the courtyard. They wave and exchange news, forging a connection across the physical distance. This collective action provided a sense of hope and optimism. Simultaneously, the emptier streets made the city's famous eccentrics stand out more, such as a man Kneale spots dressed in animal skins with two small dogs in a pouch. These moments of shared humanity and persistent individuality show that even in a crisis, the core of Roman life—its warmth, its quirks, and its strong social bonds—endured.
Finding Perspective in the Past: Plagues, Politics, and Fascism
Key Insight 3
Narrator: Kneale, a historian as well as a novelist, uses Rome's immense and often brutal past to contextualize the present crisis. To cope with the anxiety of the lockdown, he reminds himself that Rome has survived far worse. He recounts the history of the city's true plague, malaria, which for centuries made Rome a "demographic sinkhole." He also describes the horror of the Justinian Plague in the 6th century and the Sack of Rome in 1527, events that brought devastation on a scale that dwarfs the current pandemic. The book takes the reader on a virtual tour of a deserted Rome, reflecting on its layered history. He contemplates the Colosseum, a site of both architectural glory and unimaginable cruelty, and examines the physical and psychological scars left by Mussolini's Fascist regime. By placing the COVID-19 lockdown within this vast historical timeline, Kneale offers a powerful sense of perspective, suggesting that Rome's defining characteristic is its ability to endure, rebuild, and carry the weight of its past into the future.
The Roman Paradox: Humanity and Corruption Side-by-Side
Key Insight 4
Narrator: The diary explores the deep contradictions of Roman society, where incredible humanity exists alongside cynical corruption. On one hand, the crisis highlights the best of the city. Local vendors, like the fruit and vegetable stallholders Bruno, Sara, and Matteo, become heroes, organizing direct deliveries to ensure the community has fresh food. This personal, relationship-based economy proves remarkably resilient. On the other hand, Kneale delves into the city's darker side, recounting the "Mafia Capitale" scandal. This investigation exposed a deep-seated network of corruption where politicians and criminals colluded to profit from public funds, including those meant for managing refugee centers. The book features a chilling taped phone call in which one of the key figures, Salvatore Buzzi, boasts that exploiting immigrants is more profitable than dealing drugs. Kneale suggests this corruption is a perversion of Rome's emphasis on personal relationships, where a blind eye is turned to small infractions, creating a culture where larger crimes can fester. The author’s shame over this scandal reveals his own journey from a foreign observer to an "honorary Roman" who feels the city's failings as his own.
Unlocking the Future: Cautious Hope and Lessons Learned
Key Insight 5
Narrator: As the diary concludes, Italy begins "Phase Two," a gradual easing of lockdown restrictions. The final entries capture the mixed emotions of this transition. The first day of freedom is not a moment of pure euphoria, but something more ordinary and anticlimactic. A trip to the famous Tazza d'Oro coffee bar, a simple pre-lockdown pleasure, is now a convoluted process of ordering from outside and paying at arm's length. The city is changed; the tourists are gone, and a sense of caution remains. Kneale expresses gratitude for having been spared the worst of the virus, crediting the government's decisive action with saving countless lives in Rome. He ends on a note of reflection, hoping that the immense suffering of the pandemic will not be in vain. He questions the pre-pandemic "normal" of over-tourism and pollution, suggesting that the crisis offers a chance to build a better future. The book closes not with a definitive answer, but with a hopeful question about whether Rome's greatest "golden age" is yet to come.
Conclusion
Narrator: Ultimately, The Rome Plague Diaries reveals that a crisis does not so much change a city as it reveals its true, unvarnished self. For Rome, the pandemic stripped away the noise of tourism and commerce to expose its core: a place of deep historical resilience, of frustrating paradoxes, and of profound, enduring humanity. Matthew Kneale shows that in the face of an unprecedented modern plague, the city's character was its strongest defense, with personal connections and community spirit proving more vital than any globalized system. The book leaves us with a powerful challenge: to look at our own communities, reshaped by the same global crisis, and ask what essential truths have been revealed. Can we, like Kneale, find a deeper appreciation for our own shrunken worlds and use the lessons of this strange time to build a more humane future?