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Sex and the Citadel

14 min

Intimate Life in a Changing Arab World

Introduction

Narrator: Imagine a group of housewives gathered for coffee in a comfortable Cairo home. The conversation is lively until a guest, a Western-educated journalist with Egyptian roots, pulls out a small, buzzing object. It’s a vibrator. As she tries to explain its purpose, navigating a minefield of cultural sensitivities and linguistic gaps, a mix of confusion, curiosity, and quiet fascination fills the room. This single, awkward moment captures the central puzzle of the modern Arab world: the vast, often silent, gap between public piety and private reality.

This is the world Shereen El Feki invites us into in her groundbreaking book, Sex and the Citadel: Intimate Life in a Changing Arab World. She argues that to truly understand a people, their politics, their traditions, and their future, you must look inside their bedrooms. Sex, she reveals, is not a fringe topic but a powerful lens through which to view the immense pressures and potential transformations shaping the region.

The Great Historical Reversal of Sexual Stereotypes

Key Insight 1

Narrator: Today, the West often views the Arab world as a monolith of sexual repression, while seeing itself as the bastion of liberation. But history tells a far more complicated story. In the mid-19th century, the roles were completely reversed. When the French author Gustave Flaubert traveled to Egypt in 1849, he was not there for diplomacy but for debauchery. He filled his diaries with detailed accounts of his encounters with male and female prostitutes, marveling at a society he saw as openly and casually sexual. He described a culture where same-sex encounters were common and public life was filled with a sensuality that both shocked and thrilled him.

At the very same time, an Egyptian imam named Rifa'a al-Tahtawi was sent to Paris. His observations paint a picture of a French society that was, to his eyes, strangely prudish and uptight. He was baffled by the French obsession with monogamy and their apparent aversion to the kinds of homosexual encounters that were unremarkable back in Egypt. In the 19th century, it was the Arab world that was seen as sexually permissive and the West that was viewed as intolerant.

So what happened? El Feki argues that colonialism, the rise of Islamic fundamentalism, and a deep-seated "foreigner complex" caused a profound shift. Arab intellectuals began to internalize Western criticisms, and conservative religious movements, like the one sparked by Sayyid Qutb after his disgusted visit to a "licentious" America in the 1940s, positioned sexual conservatism as a defense against Western cultural corruption. The result is a modern cultural divide where, as one study found, the greatest gap between the West and the Islamic world is not over democracy, but over Eros—the attitudes toward gender roles and sexuality.

The Strained Citadel of Modern Marriage

Key Insight 2

Narrator: In Egyptian society, marriage is considered the bedrock of life, a sacred duty encouraged by family and faith. Yet this foundational institution is cracking under the weight of modern pressures. El Feki introduces us to women like Azza, a professional in Cairo who earns more than her husband. Her success, instead of being a source of pride, has created a deep tension in her marriage, contributing to a sexless and unfulfilling relationship. Her husband feels emasculated, and Azza is left wondering if her ambition is destroying her family.

Her cousin, Samar, faces a different pressure. A stay-at-home mom, she is haunted by her husband’s comparisons of her to the beautiful women he saw on a business trip to Italy. He calls her boring in bed, and Samar, who was taught only one sexual position, is left insecure and desperate, pouring money into weight-loss clinics to meet an impossible ideal.

These personal stories reflect broader societal trends. The staggering cost of weddings and housing means many young people cannot afford to get married, a frustration so potent that one protestor in Tahrir Square held a sign that read, "GO, I WANT TO GET MARRIED." In response, a shadow economy of informal marriages has emerged. Arrangements like 'urfi (customary) or misyar (ambulant) marriages offer a way around the financial and social hurdles, but they often strip women of legal rights and are a source of family conflict and social shame. The citadel of marriage is still standing, but its walls are besieged by economic anxiety and a quiet crisis of intimacy.

The Sexual Minefield of Unmarried Youth

Key Insight 3

Narrator: The Arab world is overwhelmingly young, with nearly a third of its population under the age of thirty. Yet the intimate lives of this massive demographic are shrouded in silence and contradiction. During the 2011 Tahrir Square protests, El Feki encountered this clash firsthand. She met Sally, a teenage student who passionately declared that the political revolution must also be a sexual one, quoting the French '68 slogan, "It is forbidden to forbid." Moments later, she met Amr, a young political activist who was horrified by the idea, warning her that for her own safety, she should not speak of such things.

This tension between a desire for personal freedom and the grip of tradition defines the experience of Arab youth. Female virginity remains a concept of paramount importance, symbolized by the proverb, "The honor of a girl is like a match; it only lights once." This obsession leads to the prevalence of virginity testing and hymen-repair surgery.

Furthermore, the practice of female genital cutting (FGC), though illegal in Egypt, persists. El Feki speaks with women like Umm Muhammad, who plans to have her daughters cut because she believes it is a religious obligation for "purification." She also meets Magda, a traditional midwife who performs the procedure, viewing it as a professional service to curb a girl's sexual desire and ensure her modesty. For young Arabs, navigating the path to adulthood is a walk through a minefield of conflicting messages, immense social pressure, and a dangerous lack of reliable information.

A Culture of Silence and Misinformation

Key Insight 4

Narrator: Where do young people turn for answers about their changing bodies and desires? Not to the classroom. El Feki finds that sex education in Egypt is so poorly handled that teachers often send students home to read the material themselves, too embarrassed to discuss it. The result is what one expert calls a "tremendous" amount of misinformation.

To fill this void, a telephone helpline in Cairo called Shababna, or "Our Youth," was created. For twelve hours a day, doctors like Rania and Ahmed field calls from across the country, patiently dispelling myths and answering questions that young people are too afraid to ask their parents or teachers. They correct beliefs that menstrual blood is "rotten" or that a girl can get pregnant from washing her underwear with a boy's.

This information vacuum is made worse by censorship. While Egyptian cinema has begun to tackle sexual themes, as seen in the controversial film Ahasiis (Feelings), which explored female sexual frustration, filmmakers must navigate a strict censorship bureau that cuts anything deemed a threat to public morals. Even the subtitles of foreign films are often altered to obscure sexual content. This culture of silence leaves young people to piece together their understanding of sex from unreliable sources like pornography, creating a dangerous gap between curiosity and knowledge.

The Transactional Nature of Sex

Key Insight 5

Narrator: When poverty and social pressure collide, sex often becomes a commodity. El Feki explores the world of "summer marriages," a form of thinly veiled prostitution where wealthy tourists from the Gulf states enter into temporary unions with young, impoverished Egyptian women. She tells the story of Samia, a girl from a poor town whose father arranges these marriages for her. For a few thousand dollars, Samia is sold for a summer, enduring exploitation and abuse before the contract is torn up and her "husband" disappears. When asked why her town is a hub for these arrangements, she gives a simple, heartbreaking answer: "It’s because we’re so poor."

This transactional nature of sex extends to the world of outright prostitution. El Feki interviews Jihane, a sex worker in Cairo who caters primarily to married men seeking the sexual excitement they feel is missing from their own marriages. These stories reveal that sex work in Egypt is not just about individual choices but is a stark reflection of patriarchy, economic desperation, and the deep disconnect between the public ideal of marital sex and the private reality of human desire.

A Sexual Reevaluation, Not a Revolution

Key Insight 6

Narrator: In the wake of the Arab Spring, many hoped for a political revolution that would usher in a new era of freedom. But El Feki concludes that what is more likely—and perhaps more necessary—is a slow, difficult "sexual reevaluation." The path forward is not a dramatic break from the past but a gradual untangling of complex knots.

This requires changing the culture of law, so that it is seen as a tool for protection rather than control. It requires reforming an education system that stifles critical thinking. And it requires addressing the economic frustrations that fuel both religious extremism and the exploitation of the vulnerable. Crucially, El Feki argues, this change must involve men and boys, helping them to understand and accept shifting gender roles.

The ultimate goal is the democratization of personal relationships, where free and equal relations between individuals become the foundation for both sexual rights and political democracy. This will not happen overnight. It requires a new intellectual framework for sexuality, one that respects both tradition and modernity, and a vibrant civil society to push for change.

Conclusion

Narrator: The single most important takeaway from Sex and the Citadel is that the intimate is political. The struggles over sexual rights, gender equality, and personal freedom in the Arab world are not a sideshow to the grand political dramas; they are the main event. The way a society treats sex—the way it talks about it, regulates it, and polices it—is a direct measure of its health, its freedom, and its capacity for change.

El Feki leaves us with a challenging question: Can a society truly achieve political freedom if its citizens are not free in their own homes and in their most personal relationships? The answer suggests that the long, arduous journey toward a more open and democratic Arab world must travel not only through its parliaments and public squares, but also through its bedrooms.

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