
Gods and Kings
12 minThe Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano
Introduction
Narrator: In February 2011, at the chic Parisian café La Perle, a scene of shocking vitriol unfolded. A visibly intoxicated man, his words slurring, unleashed a torrent of anti-Semitic and racist abuse at a couple at the next table. He yelled, "Dirty Jew face, you should be dead." That man was John Galliano, the celebrated creative director of Christian Dior, one of the most powerful positions in global fashion. Within days, a video of the incident went viral, and Galliano was unceremoniously fired, his career imploding in a public spectacle of disgrace.
Almost exactly one year prior, in February 2010, the fashion world had been rocked by a different, more private tragedy. Alexander McQueen, the brilliant and provocative British designer, was found dead in his London flat, having taken his own life shortly after his mother’s death. These two events, the public flameout and the private despair, marked the definitive end of an era. How did two of fashion’s most revered geniuses, both working-class British boys who had conquered the world of haute couture, meet such devastating ends? Dana Thomas’s meticulously researched book, Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano, provides the answer. It reveals that their stories are not just personal tragedies but a profound indictment of a fashion industry that had become a voracious corporate machine, one that built up its gods only to sacrifice them on the altar of commerce.
The London Rebels: Forging Genius from Grit and Glamour
Key Insight 1
Narrator: The journeys of John Galliano and Alexander "Lee" McQueen began in starkly different corners of London, yet both were forged in rebellion against their circumstances. Galliano, born in Gibraltar to a Spanish mother, grew up in working-class South London. He found his escape and his identity in the city’s vibrant and decadent club scene of the 1980s. At St Martins School of Art, he became a star, culminating in his 1984 graduation show, Les Incroyables. Inspired by the French Revolution, the collection was a theatrical, romantic, and deconstructed masterpiece that was immediately bought in its entirety by the influential London boutique Browns. Galliano’s genius was for historical fantasy and fluid, bias-cut garments that celebrated a new, expressive femininity.
McQueen’s origins were grittier. Raised in London’s tough East End, he was a shy boy who endured bullying and hid a deep-seated trauma. His rebellion was quieter but no less intense. Foregoing the club scene, he apprenticed on Savile Row at the age of sixteen, mastering the rigorous, centuries-old techniques of bespoke tailoring. This classical training became the foundation for his later deconstruction of fashion. His 1992 master's collection at Central Saint Martins, titled Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, was a dark, macabre, and technically brilliant statement. He wove human hair into the linings of Victorian-style coats, a provocative gesture that announced a designer fascinated by life’s darker themes: sex, death, and power. While Galliano was a romantic, McQueen was a punk with the skills of a master craftsman.
The Art of the Impossible: Breakthroughs Against All Odds
Key Insight 2
Narrator: Before they were titans of industry, Galliano and McQueen were struggling artists who created their most legendary work out of sheer will and desperation. In 1994, Galliano was financially ruined for the third time. On the verge of collapse, he was saved by a last-minute intervention orchestrated by Vogue’s Anna Wintour. With a shoestring budget, he was given access to an empty Parisian mansion owned by socialite São Schlumberger. In just two weeks, Galliano and his team created a collection of eighteen looks from cheap black satin. Top models like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell worked for free, believing in his vision. The resulting show was an ethereal, poetic, and breathtakingly beautiful event that captivated the industry and single-handedly resurrected his career.
Similarly, McQueen’s early shows were defined by their raw creativity and lack of resources. His most significant early contribution was the "Bumster" trouser, first shown in 1993. The waistline was slung so shockingly low that it revealed the bottom of the spine, which McQueen considered the body’s most erotic zone. It was not about vulgarity, but about elongating the torso and creating a new, powerful silhouette. The Bumster would go on to define the look of the 1990s and early 2000s, a testament to McQueen's ability to reshape fashion with a single, audacious idea. These moments reveal their pure, unadulterated genius before the pressures of the corporate world began to mount.
The Corporate Machine: When Art Meets Commerce
Key Insight 3
Narrator: The 1990s witnessed a seismic shift in the fashion industry, driven by tycoons like Bernard Arnault, head of the luxury conglomerate LVMH. Arnault transformed the landscape from a collection of small, family-owned couture houses into a global, profit-driven enterprise. He acquired legendary but struggling brands like Christian Dior and Givenchy, aiming to revitalize them with young, edgy designers who could generate media hype and drive sales of high-profit items like perfume and handbags.
This new model created an insatiable hunger for talent, and Arnault set his sights on Galliano and McQueen. In 1995, Galliano was appointed creative director of Givenchy, a shocking move that replaced the house’s aristocratic founder with a flamboyant British rebel. A year later, he was moved to the crown jewel, Christian Dior. Shortly after, McQueen was hired to take Galliano’s place at Givenchy. The two working-class boys from London were now at the helm of Paris’s most storied couture houses. They were given immense resources but were also placed under unimaginable pressure. Their primary role was not just to design clothes, but to act as marketing tools, creating spectacular, headline-grabbing shows that would sell the brand to a global audience.
The Gilded Cage: The Unbearable Weight of Success
Key Insight 4
Narrator: Success within the corporate machine came at a tremendous personal cost. The creative demands were relentless. Both designers were responsible for their own labels in London as well as their work in Paris, forcing them to produce up to ten collections a year. The pace was unsustainable, leaving little room for reflection or creative incubation. As one editor noted, "Fashion is fast forward, frenetic. How can designers keep up?"
This pressure cooker environment fueled their personal demons. Both McQueen and Galliano descended into serious drug and alcohol abuse to cope with the anxiety and exhaustion. McQueen’s paranoia intensified; he became convinced LVMH was spying on him and grew increasingly isolated. His shows for his own label became more aggressive and personal, acting as an outlet for the frustration he felt at Givenchy. Galliano, meanwhile, retreated into a fantasy world at Dior, enabled by a team that shielded him from reality. His shows became ever more extravagant, but his connection to the real world, and to himself, began to fray. They were living in a gilded cage, celebrated as gods but trapped by the very system that had elevated them.
The Inevitable Fracture: The Final Collections and Tragic Ends
Key Insight 5
Narrator: The immense pressure ultimately led to a complete fracture. For McQueen, the end was a descent into profound depression, exacerbated by the death of his beloved mother, Joyce, and his mentor, Isabella Blow. His final collections were deeply autobiographical and hauntingly prophetic. His spring 2010 show, Plato’s Atlantis, envisioned a future where humanity, having destroyed the planet, evolves to live underwater. The show, streamed live online, was a technological and artistic triumph, but it was also a dark farewell. On February 11, 2010, the day before his mother's funeral, McQueen took his own life.
Galliano’s end was a slower, more public implosion. Years of unchecked addiction and isolation culminated in his anti-Semitic tirade in 2011. It was not an isolated event but the final, catastrophic eruption of a man who had lost his grip on reality. His firing from Dior sent shockwaves through the industry, but for those who knew him, it was the tragic but inevitable conclusion to a long, slow decline. The two designers, who had risen in parallel, had now fallen in tragically similar ways, consumed by the industry they had once revolutionized.
Conclusion
Narrator: The single most important takeaway from Gods and Kings is that the modern fashion industry, in its relentless pursuit of growth and profit, created an unsustainable system that is fundamentally hostile to the very creative genius it relies on. The story of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano serves as a powerful and devastating cautionary tale about the human cost of the unending conflict between art and commerce. They were not just flawed individuals; they were casualties of a system that demanded too much and gave too little support in return.
Their legacy is a complex one. Their work forever changed the language of fashion, and their influence is still felt on runways today. Yet their stories force us to ask a difficult question: In a world that increasingly commodifies creativity, how do we celebrate and benefit from genius without destroying the fragile individuals who possess it?